Delhi is beautiful in its disrepair. The dust seems to be getting at everything, and eating away at the very bones of the city. Things crumble and flake and not a single vehicle, be it car or rickshaw, escapes the rust. It doesn't help that all the buildings are from the early seventies and people walk around in clothes that are at least 30 years out of date.
The smog is as thick as smoke here. It's like a heavy fog has descended on the city, but the black in your nose and ears lets you know it's merely pollution. It also changes the lighting so that it always looks like dusk. Now explain that one.
The smells are overwhelming. Depending on how close you are to the nearest garbage heap, the air either smells like spicy incence or like sewage. The good smells make up for the occasional stink. Even the money smells like it would be good to eat. I'll try to hold off. (Renee pointed out that a recent study of *Canadian* money, revealed every bodily fulid can be found on it...)
People drive like absolute lunatics. There must be official rules for driving, considering there are actual lines on the road, but you'd never know it after actually driving around a bit. People somehow manage to squeeze 6 or 7 cars into three lanes, side by side. It's terrifying. I've already lived through so many close calls (sometimes in an unprotected cycle-rickshaw!). As far as merging goes, the rule seems to be honk instead of watching for other people. And these Indian drivers seem to think that squeezing your car in between another and the wall, when that space is only about 4 feet wide, is a fantastic idea.
The food is very tasty. We made it into central Delhi (which is a whole other story in itself) and ate dinner at a rundown vegetarian place, that seemed to be pretty popular. We had aloo masala and butter naan. Delicious! I want to go back. Possibly right now. Although I'm not too keen on eating with my hands.
I'm loving it here. And I love talking to you guys back at home, but I must head off as we plan to see the Red Fort today, among other adventures.
-Amelia
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2 comments:
Hullo Amelia and co.
those smells - they will live with you forever. whenever i smell diesel on a hot day i am transported back to Thailand, especially if there are smoky food aromas in the mix. also, waking up to food being cooked at ALL hours of day or night, the sounds of dishes being washed across the way, or used dishwater splashing out the window. these are all burned in my memory.
the roads were exactly the same in Thailand, Bangkok in particular, where the traffic congestion is the greatest. it made me think of two things: those coin sorters where the dimes and pennies run ahead and larger quarters and nickels stay back ... on the streets in Bangkok the motorcycles, on which the mufflers had all been removed to obtain maybe 10% more power, would filter to front of the pack at every light, then bomb ahead leaving the rest in a cloud of exhaust, always the lovely ladies riding side saddle looking crisp and clean and holding a scarf to their nose and mouth.
i have a musical theory about the road system. just like a treble clef, the notes - vehicles - go on the spaces and the lines too.
there is definitely a method to the madness b/c it does work. there are so many close calls but if you can get by without suffering a heart attack you realize after awhile that that is how it goes. i think the sense of time - with the traffic at least is different - milliseconds seem longer, b/c you soon find the close calls not so startling and less not really noticing them any more.
glad to hear you are all doing well, get some sleep,
and looking forward to more posting s and pix.
xoxo lana
Hullo Amelia and co.
those smells - they will live with you forever. whenever i smell diesel on a hot day i am transported back to Thailand, especially if there are smoky food aromas in the mix. also, waking up to food being cooked at ALL hours of day or night, the sounds of dishes being washed across the way, or used dishwater splashing out the window. these are all burned in my memory.
the roads were exactly the same in Thailand, Bangkok in particular, where the traffic congestion is the greatest. it made me think of two things: those coin sorters where the dimes and pennies run ahead and larger quarters and nickels stay back ... on the streets in Bangkok the motorcycles, on which the mufflers had all been removed to obtain maybe 10% more power, would filter to front of the pack at every light, then bomb ahead leaving the rest in a cloud of exhaust, always the lovely ladies riding side saddle looking crisp and clean and holding a scarf to their nose and mouth.
i have a musical theory about the road system. just like a treble clef, the notes - vehicles - go on the spaces and the lines too.
there is definitely a method to the madness b/c it does work. there are so many close calls but if you can get by without suffering a heart attack you realize after awhile that that is how it goes. i think the sense of time - with the traffic at least is different - milliseconds seem longer, b/c you soon find the close calls not so startling and less not really noticing them any more.
glad to hear you are all doing well, get some sleep,
and looking forward to more posting s and pix.
xoxo lana
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